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Titebond III Glue

Titebond III glue for making skateboards and other projects.

  • Titebond III glue for making skateboards and other projects.
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Product Description:

Titebond III has all the properties you want for making skateboards:

  • It makes a flexible glue line when dried, so will not crack like more rigid (epoxy) glues
  • it is WATERPROOF, so if your board is exposed to moisture, the veneer layers will not separate.
  • The working time is much longer (9 minutes) than other woodworking glues.
  • It is a water-based glue, so clean up is easy and the glue is safer to use than epoxy-style glues.
  • Titebond III glue does not stick to the inside of the Thin Air Press bag.
  • Titebond III Glue

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    Titebond III Glue

    MSDS sheet is available at the Franklin website

    Amounts: (Note that if you are using a fresh roller, a fair amount of glue will be absorbed into the roller. Plan accordingly!)

    • 8 oz of glue is only enough to make one Lil'Rockit with some left over.
    • 16 oz of glue is only enough to make one Pintail or one Street Deck, and about 3 Lil'Rockits.
    • 32 oz of glue is enough to make two Pintail or two Street Decks, and about 6 Lil'Rockits.
    • One gallon is enough to make: 13 Street Decks, OR 11 pintail Long Boards (7 layers), OR 30 Lil'Rockits.
    For builders using uncut (rectangles) of veneer, please adjust your requirements accordingly.

    Use our Glue Calculator to estimate how much glue you will need for your custom project.

    Following the instructions in your kit, or from our tutorials use the glue amounts recommended for the size of veneer sheets you have.

    Use the roller supplied with your complete kit, or for custom builds, use a 9” close-nap paint roller.

    Roller out a thick but not pooling layer of glue on one side of the facing veneers and if you have time (or a helper), apply a thinner coat to wet the facing sheet.

    Make sure that no glue has dried before you stack the veneers and get them pressed in the Thin Air Press vacuum bag. Dried glue will not make a bond.

    The working time is much longer (9 minutes) with this glue than other woodworking glues however if any of the glue dries before the stack is pressed in the TAP, those dry spots will result in de-lamination.

    Do not allow this glue to freeze

    When you are done with your glue up, do not wash out the roller, but store it in a plastic bag. Keep using the charged roller until it literally falls apart.

    Q: How much is enough glue?
    A: As per the instructions, a thick but not pooling layer of glue on one side and a thinner amount to wet the other side will be perfect. Too much glue and you get bubbles in the veneer, and too little you will starve the joint and get delamination.

    Q: Why use Titebond III and not II?
    A: Titebond III is waterproof, and Titebond II is not

    Q: It says on the bottle that the glue dries in 30 minutes, so why do I have to keep my board in the TAP bag for 8 hours?
    A: Titebond III will start to set up in 30 minutes, but most users of this glue are not bending 7 or more layers of 1/16” thick veneer over a mold into a skateboard! The label also says not to stress the joints for 24 hours, so our 8 hours minimum dry time in the vacuum press will allow enough of the glue to dry that it will keep the layers in shape.

    Q: What about using SK8 glue?
    A: SK8 is another glue made also by Franklin for the small industrial skateboard industry. SK8 has a 3 month shelf life, after which it gells and is not usable. (we found out the hard way). Rumor has it, that Franklin used the SK8 formulation to create a more shelf-stable glue, and that became Titebond III. A little reverse engineering from the skateboard world!

    Q: Will dried Titebond III wash out of my favorite t-shirt?
    A: Nope! That’s why we have Roarockit aprons, as it never fails that glue ends up on your clothes while doing a glue up.

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